Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
